Follow Me On:
The Adventurous Silversmith
  • Home
  • Blog
  • Portfolio
    • Metal Work >
      • Chasing & Repousse
      • Holloware
      • Jewelry
      • Other Wonderful Items
    • Fiber Arts >
      • Temari
      • Yubinuki
  • Resources
    • Library
    • Tools & Equipment
    • Links
  • About
    • Artist Statement
    • Curriculum Vitae
    • How it is Made
    • Contact

Yubinuki - Tutorial 9: Three Colors (Part C Sewing Cottons)

2/24/2019

0 Comments

 
Picture
It has taken almost a month but I have finally finished sewing this patter  FOUR times with various sizes of cotton. 
I purchased 4 different sizes of cotton (8, 10, 16, and 80) and technically the same three colors - Blue, Green, and White. I did this not only to evaluate the threads: what is was like to sew with them and how did they look different or the same when completed.  And as in the prior post I made bases all the same size. 
  • DM Perle Cotton Size 8 : This is the size I have been using for the majority of the prior tutorials. I find it easy to work with and the sheen makes it glide easily through the base when stitching and it does not twist or know very much. With this thread there was an average of 7 stitches per division which means I did 210 total stitches (7 * 10 divisions/color * 3 colors). From the first row of pictures, below you can see the design is nice but the individual threads are visible

  • DMC Cotton Size 10: This is a perle cotton that is suggested for crochet and I purchased it directly from DMC. I found that there was almost NO sheen and it looked rather flat or mat. It was not as easy to work with as the size 8 as it WOULD twist and knot easily, I ended up cutting the length of thread to be shorter to limit this but of course I had to then have more thread starts and stops. With this thread there was an average of 8 stitches per division which is 240 total stitches (8 * 10 divisions/color * 3 colors). From the second row of pictures, below you can see the design is does not even look as good as with the size 8 cotton. I don't think I will use this cotton again.
​
  • Presencia Finca Cotton Size 16: This is a perle cotton but it does have a multi thread twist that is not meant to be divided like a floss would; it is sold as a tatting thread and I purchased it via Amazon. I found that there was a minimal amount of sheen but it is not as much as the DMC size 8. It was not as easy to work with as the size 8 as it WOULD twist and knot easily but it was easier than the DMC size 10. Having learned my lesson with the size 10 I used shorter lengths of thread to sew with. With this thread there was an average of 11 stitches per division which means I did 330 total stitches (11 * 10 divisions/color * 3 colors).. From the third row of pictures, below you can see the design does look good if not better than the Size 8 and certainly better than the size 10  because with the finer thread the thread detail is less visible and you see the over pattern more.  I would will use this cotton again because they also have a good color selection.

  • Lizbeth Cotton Size 80: This is a not a marketed as a perle cotton but it does have a multi thread twist that is not meant to be divided like a floss would; it is sold as a tatting thread and I purchased it directly from Handing Hands Tatting. This cotton is very very fine/thin and because of that. It was not as easy to work with and I went t a much smaller needle so the thread would not slip out of the eye of the needle.  It would also twist and knot easily but having worked my way to this small a thread had taught me to hold the thread as I putted the stitch through the base to prevent twisting and knotting.  With this thread there was an average of 14 stitches per division which means I did 420 total stitches (14 * 10 divisions/color * 3 colors). From the fourth row of pictures, below you can see the design is does look good if not better than the Size 8  because with the finer thread the thread detail is less visible and you see the over pattern more.  I would will use this cotton again because they also have a good color selection but using this size thread means more time sewing. It should also be noted that this size is the closest to the Japanese silk in size, if not a bit finer.

The very last picture show all the Yubinuki size by size so you can really see how the threads compare from the largest on the left to the finest on the right.

The next Yubinuki post will be the evaluation of SILK threads with this same pattern and colors. 
Picture
0 Comments

Yubinuki - Tutorial 9: Three Colors (Part B The Bases)

1/27/2019

0 Comments

 
I have prepared 4 bases, as they are called in Japan, I was calling it a core which I guess is wrong and I will probably make a few more since there are some more silk threads for me to try, on the way. 

I used the same sized mandrel for all of the bases and I cut everything the same - the paper, the fabric lining and even the pattern paper and marked them with 30 divisions. I then took the silk I had, from my spinning supplies, to add the padding. To make sure all the patterns matched up I had to add a bit more or a bit less silk as I wound it around the base. 

The 4 bases are now ready for sewing, which I will cover in Part C and I will start with a size 8 Perle cotton.  

So I bet you are wondering WHY I am doing this. Well the answer is that I tried to sew this pattern with the Japanese silk and made an absolute mess of it. The silk kept twisting and knotting and I could not undo them so I had to cut the thread; my divisions, using the 15 per the original pattern and not the 30 I am suggesting you use, were all off and not evenly spaced;  and so I got frustrated with it and set it aside. 

That is when I had THIS idea to try different thread material and work my way down to finer threads.
0 Comments

Yubinuki - Tutorial 9: Three Colors (Part A The Pattern)

1/20/2019

1 Comment

 
This tutorial is a follow on to the The Hunt for Silk post from a few weeks ago. This tutorial will be made up of several parts that not only cover the pattern and sewing but I will sew the same pattern with different sized threads  - yes, I am making the same Yubinuki at least 4 times in cotton and 4 more in silk.  

So let's discuss the pattern (show below), here are the details
  • Colors: 3 shown with Blue, Green and  White (shown as Grey)
  • Needles: 3
  • Divisions:  30

Sewing Notes: Each color is sewn, in order: once around in Blue, once around in Green, and once around in White. This is why you need 3 needles because using one needle and constantly re-threading the eye after each round would be extra steps. The sewing continues until all spaces are filled.

Note that after the first stitch at the top edge is taken, the second and all even numbered stitches, on the bottom edge is 3 divisions marks over.  The original pattern had 15 divisions and the second stitch was to be placed half way between two division lines, so I decided that to keep the sewing more even, it would be better to double the number of divisions; which makes the placement of the even stitch numbers much more accurate.

So what does the completed Yubinuki look like? Below the pattern are several images (used without permission) from the various Japanese books. 

So prepare your bases to follow along. 

Note: You may have to zoom in on the picture to see the lines, which are the threads, because with 30 divisions, I had to shrink the image to fit on the page.
Picture
1 Comment

Yubinuki - Tutorial 8: Sewing with 2 Colors from a Pattern

1/5/2019

0 Comments

 
Now that we have sewn 2 yubinuki with a single thread (odd and even number of divisions); it is now time to add some color. This yubinuki is sewn with 2 colors which means  TWO needles are required. The yubinunki will also be sewn in ONE one direction with an even number of divisions. To also tie into what has been learned so far, the pattern is shown below
Picture
Before the sewing begins, let's go over the pattern.
  • The numbers 1 and 2 as shown in the by the arrows indicate where each color is to start. Thus Color 1 as shown by the red, starts at any division line (this pattern starts technically at zero);  then color 2, the gold, starts one division line over (which would be at division line one). 
  • This pattern has 10 divisions.
  • The first color is sewn for a complete round and when the thread is back at the starting point the edge stitch is made and then the needle is parked. I put it in a little pin cushion that I have placed near me on the table.
  • The second color is then sewn, around the code and again, when the stitching returns to the starting point the edge stitch is made and then this second needle is parked.
​Let's get started.
  • On the core place a pattern paper with 10 divisions
  • First select 2 colors in the same weight thread. I am using a silk perle and I chose the Gold and the Red colors.
  • Then thread each color in a needle.
  • Create the starting knot at the "first division". 
  • Stitch the first round until returning to the starting mark.
  • Park the needle and thread off to the side.
  • Take the second color thread and needle and start by making a stitch at the next, division mark, on the same edge that the first thread was started.
  • Stitch all the way around with the second thread and take a second stitch next to the very first stitch for the round.
  • Park the needle and thread off to the side.
  • Keep sewing rounds in alternating colors; the cross of the two threads should be in the middle, between the top and bottom. 
  • When all the divisions are filled take the last stitch with each color and then bury the thread end under the sew threads.
And here is the completed Yubinuki
Picture
0 Comments

Yubinuki - The Hunt for Silk Thread

12/29/2018

2 Comments

 
Picture
I love, Love, LOVE, LOVE sewing with silk
My love of silk began with sewing clothing and then when sewing hand embroidery and now I am looking at Yubinuki.

Yubinuki are traditionally sewn with silk and to date, the tutorials have been using perle (or pearl) cotton.  I have done this to gain skill and not waste an expensive thread on something that might not look so as I learned.

So the question is what size silk thread does one use and where do you get it. Soon after getting my Yubinuki books from Japan, I was looking at the images of the supplies and they showed a silk thread on a cardboard bobbin marked KNK. 

​Thus began my hunt to find this thread/chord and/or equivalents. I am now ready to share what I have found.

One place I went looking was high-end needle-point and embroidery stores. There I found the Au ver Soie Perlee (3rd from left above, which is RED), which is translated, a silk perle.  I have made one yubinuki with it (2 colors) and found it very slippery but the sheen and colors wonderful.  This 2 color yubinuki will be the next tutorial so stay tuned.

Then I went to the Houston Quilt Fest looking for other sources and I found Treenway Silk (1st on left, variegated Red/Orange) and Fiber on a Whim (2nd on left, variegated Blue/Green). These two are slightly thicker than the Silk Perle and are described as a silk chord. 

4th (Purple) and 5th (Pale Pinks) in the image are NOT silk but size 20 and size 40 cotton used for tatting. These are shown for size comparison but you might want to sew a few yubinuki with this size before tackling the REAL Japanese silk which is  the far right in Green. 

Now it is time to get to it - the elusive Japanese Silk. I have found two manufacturers of the size shown in the books; they are Fujix and Kanagawa. I spent weeks Googling and trust me I am a good Google-er; it took time but it has come to light that for traditional yubinuki silk the thread marked #9 is what should be used.  There are many a websites (Etsy or Amazon) selling #16 button hole twist thread but trust me, #16 is even finer than #9 and it is not what "we" want. I also discovered that you can, with time, find a random bobbin of #9 on eBay and on Amazon but not the full assortment of colors. 

I did purchase a bobbin of each thread via Ebay so I could do more research.

After finding the companies and their websites, I used Google translate navigate and find the pages for not only the individual bobbins of thread, but their thread sample books that show ALL the colors; at least 100 from each company but there was no way to place an international order. The KNK on-line order forms also assumed you were in Japan and they don't take credit cards OR Paypal, only checks or bank transfers. I then used their "Contact Us" for to send an email to ask HOW can I order.   It took over 10 emails of: what I wanted to purchase; where to send it in the USA; where to send the money, in Japan; and bank transfer information but the deed is done - I have paid for the order. 

So what did I get?
  • kits (thread on bobbins, silk for the padding, a pre-made base and instructions in Japanese, and extra paper and fabric to make another base)
  • an assortment threads
  • pre-made bases (which I also call a core)
  • silk padding
  • fabric
  • paper
  • and the thread colors card. 

I hoping that I will be able to sell these items soon, here on this website, stay tuned for that!

As I stated earlier, the next tutorial will be with the Au ver Soie Perlee. After than I will do an experiment using the same pattern and sized bases but with different sized threads. This comparison will allow you and me to find out what it is like to use these threads, and what the finished Yubinuki looks like, when compared side by side.

Links to  thread sources in the USA if you want to use these other silks and cottons
  • Treenway Silk :  This silk is listed as a button hold twist but depending on the company, the size can vary. 
  • Fiber on Whim : Silk Chord equivalent to size 8 and 12 Perle Cotton
  • Au ver Soie Perlee: A silk perle that is 3 ply and equivalent to a 12 Perle  Cotton. 
  • Lizbeth Tatting Size 20 Perle Cotton
  • Lizbeth Tatting Size 40 Perle Cotton

The 6 pictures below are of the threads, as I purchased them. The last two are the Fujix and the KNK.
2 Comments

Yubinuki - Tutorial 7: Sewing Patterns (more)

12/15/2018

0 Comments

 
In Tutorial 6, the yubinuki was sewn on an odd number of divisions and thus the thread for a round overlaps the thread from the prior round, let's recap that pattern and then go over the pattern:
  • Thread Colors: 1
  • Needles: 1
  • Divisions:  11

To expand on your knowledge of reading patterns, notice that there are 11 divisions, one color and ONE direction that the sewing is done in. The image below also shows how the first part of stitching ends back at division 1 but on the opposite side from where the stitching started
Picture
Then when the second half of the round is stitched, the thread crosses the thread already sewn. For these diagrams I have outlined the lines which represent the thread with a black outline to make seeing the cross easier, below.
Picture
This final image is the pattern and how it would appear in a book of patterns
Picture
In the next tutorial, we will start with the pattern and then sew it!
0 Comments

Yubinuki - Tutorial 6: Sewing with Interlacing

11/24/2018

0 Comments

 
Welcome back! It is time for the next tutorial in this series.

The tutorials so far have taught the basics: making a core,  a division tool, how to prepare the core for sewing, and then sewing your first yubinuki with a single color, single needle, and a pattern with an even number of divisions. 

This second sewing tutorial will be a single color, single needle pattern with an odd number of divisions.  This is important because the number of divisions from the previous tutorial was an even number and this results in when taking the first stitch of the second round, the needle was back at the starting point.  For this tutorial, the first stitch of the second round will be on same division line as the very first stitch but on the opposite edge of the yubuinuki; this means it will take TWO rounds to return to the starting point.  All of this is important because it results in the threads being interlaced.   

Let's get started! 
Gather you material, supplies and tools:
  • Core with padding or not (depending on if you add your pattern on top of or below the padding)
  • Perle Cotton Size 5 - one color but not a dark color, as this will make seeing the stitches difficult
  • Patter Division Tool
  • Support Mandrel
  • Needle with an eye large enough for your thread
  • Threader (optional)
  • Scissors
Part 1: Preparing to Sew
  • Refer to Step 2 in the post Tutorial 3 to determine the length of your pattern paper.
  • Lay the pattern paper on the pattern tool and position the points so you have an ODD number of divisions.  The picture below show 5, you should aim for 9 or 11. 
  • Mark the divisions on the paper.
  • Draw your direction arrows.
  • Apply the pattern to the core.
  • If required, add your padding, you may have laid it UNDER the pattern.
Part 1: Sewing the first half of Round 1
  • Take the size 5 perle cotton and thread the needle
  • Insert the needle into the core and make the starting stitch which will anchor the thread.
  • Lay the thread across the core to the next division, on the bottom edge. 
  • Rotate the core so the bottom edge is now the top, and make the second stitch.
  • Continue stitching around the core until you reach the starting division, but on the bottom edge.
  • Again, rotate the core and take the last stitch, on the top edge, 
  • You have now completed the first half of ONE round in the pattern
Part 2 : Sewing the second half of Round 1
  • Sew the first stitch, of the second half, at the starting division mark which is now the top edge.  
  • Lay the thread to the next division on the bottom. Lay the loose thread over the sew thread so they cross in the middle of the core, flip the core and sew the stitch
  • Lay the thread across the core to the next division, overlaying the thread on the existing stitch, on the bottom edge. 
  • Continue stitching around the core until you reach the starting division, but on the bottom edge.
  • Again, rotate the core and take the last stitch, on the top edge,
  • NOTE: Make sure that the threads keep a consistent cross angle around the core, as you sew 
  • You have now completed round one of the pattern
​Part 3 : Sewing Remaining Rounds
  • Sew the remaining rounds.
  • Keep checking your stitch spacing so you end up with the same number of stitches per division.
  • With every stitch, make sure your interlaced (crosses) are in the center of the core.
  • On your last stitch, bury the thread in the core, under the stitching. Then cut the thread and bury the end.
Here is what the completed yubinuki should look like when completed.
Picture
0 Comments

Yubinuki - Tutorial 5: Sewing Patterns Intro

11/11/2018

0 Comments

 
Now that a simple, single color thread has been sewn, it would be good to cover reading and even making your own pattern; and to start the sewing pattern from the last tutorial is the perfect starting point.

Let's recap that pattern:
  • Thread Colors: 1
  • Needles: 1
  • Divisions:  10 

Here is a pattern diagram of what was sewn; can you understand or read it based upon what was sewn? 
Picture
Let's now go over what the pattern instructions are:
​A) First, you can see that there are 10 divisions
B) The one in the circle and the arrow indicate where to start and in what direction to stitch
C) The stitching begins at division line 1
​D) The colored line not indicates the color use 
E) Since there are no other lines, arrows, or numbers this pattern is sewn, around and around until the threads fill in all the spaces.

Yes, this is a simple pattern but now look at this pattern below, from one of the Japanese books I have. Yes, this is a very complex pattern. The book that this came from is ALL patterns and almost NO descriptions, not even in Japanese! 

 I have NOT sewn this and each time I look at it I understand a bit more. This pattern uses 6 colors and the patter is sewn from left to right AND right to left. It also appears to interweave the threads which requires at least 2 needles, each with a thread. This implies that after each round with one needle/thread, the other needle thread is used - this can be seen in how the green sections cross.

Some day, this pattern will be shown in a tutorial
Picture
0 Comments

Yubinuki - Tutorial 4: Learning to Sew

10/20/2018

 
In this tutorial, I will teach you how to sew a yubinuki with a disclaimer which is - it won't be perfect.
Why? 
Because the hardest part of sewing a yubinuki is getting your stitches to be evenly spaced, around the ring, such that you have the same number of stitches in each division of the pattern.  As you will see, as you learn, when you have finished sewing a division, some will be filled with stitches and others will have gaps. As your designs get more complex and you use finer threads, the number of stitches taken within a division will change which adds to this issue.  Again, just keep this in mind and the more yubinuki you make, the better your skill at spacing your stitches will become. The disclaimer is now over!

NOTE: I have done this yubinuki twice, once with the pattern below the padding and once with the pattern on the padding; so some pictures will be of one, or the other or both.  AND neither has the herringbone top stitch, which holds them down, so not to confuse you.
 
To start gather you material, supplies and tools:
  • Core with padding and pattern
  • Perle Cotton Size 5 - one color but not a dark color, as this will make seeing the stitches difficult
  • Support Mandrel
  • Needle with an eye large enough for your thread
  • Threader (optional)
  • Scissors
NOTE: Start with a size 5 perle cotton as it thicker and thus less stitches are required to fill a division. As you gain experience, then move to finer threads.
Step 1 - Threading the Core
  • ​Measure off a good 2 arms length of perle cotton and thread the needle. DO NOT KNOT either end. 
  • Put your core on the mandrel and position the core at one end of it with the top edge of the core beyond the edge of the mandrel.
  • NOTE: Have your arrows pointing to the right to start. Sewing direction will change as we sew so being left or right handed does not matter. I am left handed and have not issues sewing!
  • In between two division marks, the along the center of core,  push the needle through the padding and or pattern, leaving a thread tail sticking out. Do this to the left of the red dot or arrows which denote the starting point of your stitching.
  • Next, at a division line at the red dot or your arrow, bring the needle and thread up near the edge of the core, at the "corner", then push the needle through and across the edge. The stitch should be through the lining fabric and above the paper layers.
  • Before you pull the needle all the way through, wrap the thread around and under the needle from right to left.
  • Now gently pull the needle through and pull it so the thread makes a tight loop (aka knot) at the corner of the core body and core edge. If needed, hold on to the tail so you don't pull that through.
  • Pull the thread out from the stitch so get it tight. Pulling the thread down can cause the knot to tighten before the thread through the edge has snugged up.
  • You have made your first stitch!
Step 2: Sew the next stitch
  • Since the arrows point to the right, that is where your next division mark will be for the next stitch. BUT sewing along the bottom, is impossible. ​Turn the mandrel with the core on it, to the left so you can see the next division mark. That is where you will take your next stitch but stitching on the bottom is not easy; time to remedy that problem.
  • NOTE: The thread will be positioned diagonally from the first stitch to where the second stitch will happen.
  • Take the core off the mandrel and flip it so the bottom is now the top and the arrows are pointing to the left.
  • Once again, push the needle through the edge, from the outside to the inside, at the division line.
  • Then loop the thread from right to left, under the needle, and pull the needle and thread through to make a snug stitch and the diagonal thread is snug across the padding an pattern.
Step 3: Continue Stitching Around.
  • After the stitch is snug, once again pull the thread diagonally to the next division mark, which after the second stitch is now to your left, as shown by the arrows. Once again flip the core over, so the 3rd stitch will be to the right and repeat taking a stitch through the edge. 
  • Note: Odd number stitches will be to the right of where you just stitched; Even numbered stitches will be to the left. 
  • Keep stitching until you have worked your way around the core and are back to where you started. Since there are 10 divisions, you will do 5 stitches on each edge. 
  • You have now completed one round. 
Step 4: Complete the Second Round
  • For the second (and subsequent rounds), now that you are back where you started, as denoted by the red dot.
  • Flip your core, and if you want don't put it back on the mandrel; after the first round you can; I don't use the mandrel after the first round.
  • Take the first stitch (stitch #11) of the second round, move the needle slightly to the right of the very first stitch.
  • After the stitch is completed and you lay the thread across the core to take the next (12th) stitch, the diagonal thread will lay to the right of the thread from the previous round.
  • CHECK POINT: Continue until your stitches meet up with the next division line along one edge, from the starting point. You are now half way done. Now  would be a good time to check your stitch spacing, are all the stitches aligned with the half-way division?  Has this last round of stitches gone beyond the halfway point?
    1) Count the number of stitches/rounds you have done so far; this is the number of rounds you should do to finish the second half.  
    2)
    If some stitches have gone beyond the halfway point as you stitch the remaining rounds, place the stitches a bit closer together.
    3) If some of the stitches are not meeting up to the half way division line, then work on spacing your stitches a bit further apart.
    4) From the edge, look at your actual stitches, are they all the same size across the edge?  If not, work on this too, as you build your skill at stitching, they should all be the same size ( I have not achieved this yet, but I am getting close!).
  • Now finish the remaining rounds, when you are one or two round from finishing, again stop and check your work to make sure you can end with no gaps between the first and last stitch.
  • On the very last round, when you get back to the starting point, take the last stitch and bury the thread in the core, under all your stitches and come up between two of the diagonal threads
  • Leaving the thread in the needle, cut the thread so you can bury the thread again, but this time pull the needle such that the thread is under the stitching.
  • Congratulations! You have sewn your first yubinuki!!! 
  • NOTE: I can't tell you how many rounds you will have to do as each of us have different sized fingers and yubinuki. Additionally, different patterns will have different divisions and different sized threads will impact that number too. If you plan on making this simple pattern again, with this size thread, write the number of  rounds down so you know what it will take.
Picture

Yubinuki - Come Join a New Community

10/8/2018

0 Comments

 
Picture
.
​Hi there fellow Yubinuki-ers, there is now a new community for us to learn and share.
This community is a sub-group of a Temari community but you do NOT have to join the Temari group.
The group currently has only about 50 members who have a variety of experience, so come join us!

Note: This is not a Facebook group, and you do have to sign up when you go to the URL but there is NO cost involved.

The link is:  https://temarichallenge.groups.io/g/Yubinuki
0 Comments
<<Previous

    RSS Feed

    How to Aquire Your Own Shop Elf

    Archives

    October 2020
    August 2020
    March 2020
    December 2019
    November 2019
    October 2019
    September 2019
    August 2019
    July 2019
    June 2019
    May 2019
    March 2019
    February 2019
    January 2019
    December 2018
    November 2018
    October 2018
    September 2018
    August 2018
    July 2018
    May 2018
    April 2018
    February 2018
    January 2018
    November 2017
    October 2017
    September 2017
    July 2017
    June 2017
    May 2017
    April 2017
    March 2017
    February 2017
    January 2017
    December 2016
    November 2016
    October 2016
    September 2016
    August 2016
    July 2016
    June 2016
    May 2016
    April 2016
    March 2016
    February 2016
    January 2016
    December 2015
    November 2015
    October 2015
    September 2015
    August 2015
    July 2015
    June 2015
    May 2015
    April 2015
    March 2015
    February 2015
    January 2015
    December 2014
    November 2014
    October 2014
    September 2014
    August 2014
    July 2014
    June 2014
    May 2014
    April 2014
    March 2014
    February 2014
    January 2014
    December 2013
    November 2013
    October 2013
    September 2013
    August 2013
    July 2013
    June 2013
    May 2013
    April 2013
    March 2013
    February 2013
    January 2013
    December 2012
    November 2012
    October 2012
    September 2012
    August 2012
    July 2012
    June 2012
    May 2012
    April 2012
    March 2012
    February 2012
    January 2012
    November 2011
    August 2011
    July 2011
    June 2011
    May 2011
    April 2011
    March 2011
    February 2011
    January 2011
    December 2010
    November 2010

    Jan - Nov 2010 History
    File Size: 2272 kb
    File Type: pdf
    Download File

    Jan - Dec 2009 History
    File Size: 2332 kb
    File Type: pdf
    Download File

    Categories

    All
    42
    A Year Of Repousse
    Blacksmithing
    Blogoversary
    Box Project
    Business
    Chasing & Repousse
    Commission
    Education
    Embroidery
    Enamel
    Entries
    Entry
    Exhibition
    Facebook
    Filing
    Fold Forming
    Gold
    Holloware
    Hot Forging
    Hydraulic Press
    Jewelry
    Keum-boo
    Learning
    Leather
    Market
    Metal
    Patina
    Photography
    Polishing
    Publications
    Raising
    Sanding
    Santa Fe Symposium
    Shop Elf
    Sinking
    Social Media
    Soldering
    Store
    Studio Visits
    Superbowl Challenge
    Teaching
    Teapot Project
    Technique
    Temari
    Tin
    Tools
    Vessels
    Visiting Workshops
    Weaving
    Website
    Workshop
    Yubinuki

Powered by Create your own unique website with customizable templates.